When You Know You Gonna Use the Bathroom for a Long Time Meme
"Euphoria'due south" Costume Designer Told Us Everything You Could Maybe Demand To Know Near The Prove'due south Iconic Style Artful
Heidi Bivens — the mastermind behind the meme-inspiring "Euphoria High" dress code — gave us the lowdown on finding the aesthetic for Gen-Z'south favorite Television receiver show.
Over the course of the terminal eight weeks, the internet has been abuzz with one subject: Euphoria.
Later taking a pandemic–prompted hiatus, the show finally returned to our screens on January. 9 for its highly anticipated second season and quickly became the second-most-watched bear witness on HBO too as the most-tweeted-about show of the decade thus far.
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Alexa Demie as Maddy and Barbie Ferreira as Kat
Euphoria'south immense success feels like a testament to the power of Generation Z, who, each week without fail, rushed to Twitter and TikTok to break downwards every frame in existent time, theorizing and meme-making at a mind-boggling charge per unit.
And despite centering on dark plot points like the devastating furnishings of drug addiction and domestic abuse, the show'due south sense of nostalgia and teen fantasy aesthetic gripped viewers from the word "go" — so much so, in fact, that it sparked entire TikTok trends.
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From left to right, Sydney Sweeney (Cassie), Zendaya (Rue), Alexa Demie (Maddy), Barbie Ferreira (Kat), and Maude Apatow (Lexie) in a bath on set.
I trend involved fans videoing themselves wearing outrageous outfits and pretending they're on their way to class at "Euphoria High," hinged on the inside joke that the show'southward primary characters sport some pretty ~daring~ ensembles to school. We're talking miniskirts fresh off the Paris runway at 10 a.k. math form. A Louis Vuitton two-piece in the dejeuner line. Yous get the gist.
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Angus Cloud as Fezco
And at the helm of creating these distinctive looks was two-fourth dimension Emmy nominee costume designer Heidi Bivens, who spoke to BuzzFeed News on the heels of the flavor finale nigh how she balances the bear witness's heavy themes with iconic fashion statements — and described the online response to her piece of work as a "weird accolade."
"I honey the humor, and apparently the show is dealing with serious subject matters, so there's that delicate balance of being able to laugh at yourself and the work, merely still laurels the integrity of what the story is trying to communicate," she said of the show's popularity online.
Heidi also attributed the online fanfare to the characters' zilch-fucks-given attitudes as they strut the school hallways dressed to the nines. "I think information technology all but came together in a manner that somehow reached the zeitgeist," she said, before giving the TikTok creatives her seal of approval. "I think once something reaches that level, it'due south free game for any kind of comedic fodder."
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Jacob Elordi as Nate and Alexa Demie equally Maddy
Of course, if you're familiar with Heidi's work, y'all'll know she'southward no stranger to kickstarting a global trend. The vibrant looks she created for A24's Jump Breakers back in 2013 rapidly established neon bikinis and pink balaclavas as legitimate fashion choices for those hoping to mimic Selena Gomez and Vanessa Hudgens' wild energy.
And Heidi'south experience with the highly charged recklessness of Spring Breakers' script ended up serving every bit the perfect preparation for Season two of Euphoria, which partly centered on the backstabbing beliefs of Cassie (Sydney Sweeney).
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Sydney Sweeney as Cassie
In January'due south flavor opener — a New Year'south Eve extravaganza fueled by drugs, sexual practice, and a bloody fistfight — viewers watched Cassie have sex activity with Nate (Jacob Elordi), who is the ex-long-term fellow of her diehard bestie, Maddy (Alexa Demie).
After hooking up with Nate, Cassie plummets into a breakdown that left fans anticipating an eventual blow-upwards betwixt the girls — and her spiraling behavior was only heightened by Heidi's deliberately placed visual cues.
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Sydney Sweeney (Cassie), Alexa Demie (Maddy), and Barbie Ferreira (Kat) on fix
After the party, we watch Cassie dedicate her every waking moment to vying for Nate'south attention, something that manifests in her dressing more than and more like Maddy with each passing episode. Heidi describes this process as adding "Maddy codes" into Cassie's wardrobe.
And Cassie'south outfits became key to hinting at the growing tension between the girls in a number of awkward run-ins, dreamlike sequences, and ~that~ bath breakup, before reaching a crescendo in the finale fight scene.
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Sydney Sweeney as Cassie
Merely the Maddyfication of Cassie was never clearer than in a scene that was equal parts comedic and cringeworthy, where the two get in at schoolhouse in almost the aforementioned exact outfit, prompting Maddy to get suspicious.
"I knew that we needed to really drive it dwelling," Heidi said of this moment. "Information technology was gonna be a scene at school where Maddy would be there, and I but idea, 'OK, well, information technology would exist great if we really fabricated it obvious that she'southward trying to dress like Maddy.'"
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Alexa Demie and Sydney Sweeney posing in their matching looks as Maddy and Cassie.
Heidi explained that she'd had the idea for this scene herself and decided to pitch information technology to Sam Levinson, the show's notoriously independent writer. Of grade, Sam was on board and wound up writing it into the script while Heidi got to work on some matching outfits to convey the awkwardness.
"I call back every bit the costume designer, at that place are these opportunities to work with story and to come up with ideas and pitch ideas to the director/showrunner that influence the tone in a fashion that isn't necessarily on the folio," Heidi recalled of her role in helping orchestrate Cassie and Maddy's showdown. "So, that's a lot of fun."
And as the evidence progressed, information technology became increasingly clear to viewers that Cassie's entire identity was congenital upon her drastic need for approval, especially from Nate. In search of admiration, she'd completely lost sight of who she was, prompting an overarching sense that Cassie was never really dressed as herself.
Tasked with the task of finding a signature style for someone who lacks any kind of core identity, Heidi said she was stumped when information technology came to trying to map out Cassie's wardrobe way back in Season 1.
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Sydney Sweeney and Jacob Elordi on set as Cassie and Nate
"From the kickoff I had a difficult time wrapping my head around who Cassie is and what her wait is," Heidi told me, explaining that she and Sam scheduled a meeting to sit and brainstorm a vision for Cassie'south complicated persona.
"What Sam and I had come upwardly with is that Cassie's always yearning for this love from others, and not focusing on self-love," Heidi explained. "She is looking to others for approval, looking to others for inspiration for her style. … So and then Cassie becomes this amalgamation of all these dissimilar influences and desires in her life that sort of become this blended of who she is."
Along with a generous serving of onscreen drama, fans of the evidence will likewise be familiar with the constant rumors of behind-the-scenes anarchy.
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From superlative left, Maude Apatow, Barbie Ferreira, Sophia Rose Wilson, Alexa Demie, and Sydney Sweeney posing on set
Back in 2020, when production on Flavor 2 was halted by the pandemic, Sam reportedly used the time off to almost completely rewrite the script, which — co-ordinate to the show'due south lead star, Zendaya — wound up with the bulk of the original storylines getting cut.
In fact, Sam was reportedly making changes to the script even up until the twenty-four hours before they shot the finale, fueling rumors that offscreen disputes had resulted in certain cast members' scenes beingness cut from the prove.
For Heidi, adapting to Sam'southward artistic process was like to a game of baseball game, with her at bat trying to striking every curveball and predict his adjacent move. "There was a lot to react to, for sure," she recalled of Flavor 2's ever-changing production. "You had to stay on your toes."
Heidi went on to reveal that she'd fifty-fifty created entire outfits for scenes that were then tossed aside. "There would be changes that would come in very concluding minute sometimes," she said. "There were other times where I had been asked to build certain costumes and create looks for a certain sequence, so we were very excited about information technology and moving forward and building the costumes, and and then information technology went away."
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Zendaya every bit Rue on set
However, Heidi expressed nifty admiration for Sam, who has recently faced criticism from fans who questioned why he chooses not to collaborate with other writers on the show's script.
Calling him a "generous" director, Heidi said that Sam gave her consummate control of her vision for his characters. "I think from the beginning in the outset scripts, especially similar the pilot scripts where nosotros're introduced to well-nigh of the characters, there were some wardrobe cues written in for characters like Jules, for instance," she said. "Only for the nearly part, he let me come up up with the ideas of how nosotros wanted to starting time off with building these characters."
"He hires his department heads and and so he really simply trusts them and lets them practise their affair. And that'south such a souvenir as a costume designer considering it actually allows you lot and gives you lot the room to be creative in a way that's not stifling," she said.
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Zendaya and Hunter Schafer every bit Rue and Jules
"I retrieve he has so much to do and think almost as the director/author/showrunner that he is only so relieved to exist able to requite costumes over to me and trust that I'k going to evangelize," she added, earlier revealing a specific occasion where her vision didn't meet the mark.
"I sent an extra to gear up in a costume that so didn't work out. Merely it's because I misunderstood the context of the scene, but then did pilus and makeup, then it wasn't — thankfully, it wasn't simply me," she said with a laugh. "Simply yeah, for the well-nigh function, information technology'south but an like shooting fish in a barrel collaboration with Sam."
And it's not just Sam with whom Heidi shares a collaborative relationship, but the cast themselves.
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Hunter Schafer as Jules wearing a beaded choker she embroidered herself on set
In fact, Heidi recalled an instance when Hunter Schafer arrived on set up gear up to customize her own jewelry for Jules' New year's Eve look. "Sometimes we were getting crafty!" she quipped.
She also said that Jacob — whose costumes for Nate were relatively tame compared to his costars' — once returned a pair of skinny jeans that mysteriously fabricated it into his trailer while Heidi was away, reinforcing the strict "no skinny jeans" policy on set.
But it sounds as though no other cast member was quite every bit involved in the creation of their character'due south look equally Alexa Demie, who plays absurd girl Maddy.
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Alexa Demie every bit Maddy
"Alexa Demie was very involved with her looks, and would fifty-fifty go fabric shopping with me," Heidi said, calculation that Maddy's mode began to merge with Alexa's own.
"I retrieve Alexa is actually so talented and has an incredible scope of fashion and created mood boards for me from the start that actually set the tone and the look for the character of Maddy," she continued.
Every bit a event, Alexa has been one of the show'southward biggest breakout stars, despite existence somewhat enigmatic.
Eddy Chen / HBO
Alexa Demie equally Maddy
"She'south everywhere and nowhere at the aforementioned time. The ultimate mysterious it-daughter!" 1 fan tweeted this week — amassing nearly 100,000 likes — after the notoriously easygoing star was photographed hanging out with the likes of Anna Wintour, Kim Kardashian, and Bella Hadid at a Balenciaga fashion show in Paris last weekend.
In fact, Alexa's mystique evolved into a total-blown meme when fans began photoshopping her into historical events after realizing they were unable to determine her actual age.
Speaking about Alexa's rise to It girl stardom, Heidi suggested that her puzzling persona actually drives fans' obsessions: "I think it's really savvy with the way she's marketed herself, or not marketed herself, I should say. Her absence from social media actually drives the demand."
Eddy Chen / HBO
Alexa Demie as Maddy
Alexa's ascent to mainstream fame is just 1 case of the show'south increasing popularity, with viewership doubling during Season 2. The rush of viewers trying to lookout man the finale was and then bully that even the HBO Max site couldn't bear the pressure, completely crashing moments before the final episode was ready to stream.
Reflecting on Euphoria's sudden surge in popularity, Heidi said she could've never predicted that it would get the miracle it is today. "I didn't know that TikTok and all the memes were going to happen this flavour. I mean, we didn't take that commencement season, then there wasn't any real way of me knowing that that was gonna happen, or that the viewership was going to double the way it did," she said.
Eddy Chen / HBO
Angus Deject and Jacob Elordi every bit Fezco and Nate
But, of course, rocketing ratings come with increased criticism. Season 2 was accused of normalizing teen drug use and portraying a loftier school experience that, to some, pushed the boundaries of believability.
Similarly, the juxtaposition of dark themes with the sheer coolness of the show'southward overall aesthetic runs the gamble of glamorizing its serious discipline matters — something Heidi has been sensitive to throughout.
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Barbie Ferreira, Alexa Demie, and Syndey Sweeney on set shooting Cassie's breakdown scene
"I always like to create visual interest and for it to exist exciting visually, so that'south office of my motivation. And then the other half is to serve the story and to not pull people out of the story by making things visually interesting just for the sake of it," Heidi said.
"I know that creating the story there was some apprehension from Sam's side to non become too far with that at times … and so information technology does become a balance of like: 'What is right for this scene, on this bandage member, for who's evoking this emotion, at this time?'" she added. "Information technology's a lot of moving parts you accept to consider but to continue it feeling believable."
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Zendaya and Dominic Fike on set as Rue and Elliot
And although there'll be a long await for Flavour 3, which has been greenlit for release in 2023, Heidi was neat to share her thoughts about what the time to come might concur for the E Highland classmates.
"I predict that we're not gonna be in high schoolhouse anymore for Season 3," said Heidi, who hasn't yet seen a script. "I retrieve that nosotros might be in a unlike locale, nearby East Highland, just I think we're gonna encounter a shift in the story in a style that will be surprising to the audience, and hopefully giving them an opportunity to rediscover what they think Euphoria is."
All eight episodes of Euphoria Season ii are available to purchase across all major digital platforms.
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Alexa Demie and Syndey Sweeney as Maddy and Cassie.
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Source: https://www.buzzfeednews.com/article/ellendurney/euphoria-costume-designer-heidi-bivens-interview
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